The Other Side of Mongolia: Exploring the Tsaatan Reindeer Herders’ Lands

Beyond the wide-open steppe and the thundering hooves of the Naadam racetrack lies a Mongolia of mossy forests, silver rivers, and antlered silhouettes moving through mist. This is the far north, where the Tsaatan—also known as the Dukha—live with their reindeer in the larch and spruce taiga along the Siberian border. It is a realm that asks for time, respect, and humility—and rewards the traveler with a rare window into one of the world’s last reindeer-herding cultures.

A world between forest and sky

The taiga of northern Khövsgöl Province feels cut from a different Mongolia. Larch forests sway over peat bogs and sphagnum moss, granite ridges roll toward a horizon of weather, and clear streams stitch together meadows freckled with wildflowers in summer. In winter, the air can be diamond-sharp at –40°C. Deer trails cross with horse tracks; ravens announce your arrival long before anyone sees you. It is quiet here, and that quiet carries.

Who are the Tsaatan (Dukha)?

The Tsaatan—literally “reindeer people” in Mongolian—are a small, Tuvan-speaking community whose lives revolve around semi-nomadic reindeer husbandry. Families move their camps with the seasons to find good lichen pasture, tending herds that are transport, livelihood, and kin. Many practice traditions intertwined with shamanism; all carry deep knowledge of weather, forest, and animal behavior. Reindeer are rarely slaughtered; milk, antlers (shed naturally), and mobility sustain life here.

Where you’ll go

Most journeys aim for the East or West Taiga in Tsagaan Nuur sum, north of the Darkhad Depression’s lakes and marshes. The route runs from Ulaanbaatar to Mörön, then by rough track to Tsagaan Nuur via Ulaan-Uul, and finally by horseback with local guides into forest camps. Distances on a map look modest, but taiga travel moves at the pace of weather, hoof, and conversation.

When to go

June to early September is the practical window: long days, passable tracks, and herds in higher pastures. July and August bring mosquitoes—head nets are your friend—and afternoon storms. Late September can be glorious with golden larch, but nights bite hard and snow is possible. Deep-winter travel is extraordinary and demanding; only attempt it with experienced operators and serious cold-weather readiness. Festival dates and local gatherings change year to year—confirm before you plan around them.

Getting there and permits

Fly or drive from Ulaanbaatar to Mörön (flights take about 1.5 hours; overland can be 12–14 hours). From Mörön, a 4x4 journey of 10–14 hours, depending on conditions, leads through Ulaan-Uul to Tsagaan Nuur. From there, expect one to three days on horseback to reach active camps—the herders move, and you go to them, not the other way around.

This is a border-adjacent, protected landscape. Foreign visitors typically need permits for the border zone and for protected areas in the Ulaan Taiga region, which a licensed operator in Ulaanbaatar or Mörön should arrange in advance. Independent travel is strongly discouraged both for safety and to avoid burdening communities. Work only with outfitters who collaborate directly with Tsaatan families and compensate them fairly.

What a stay looks like

Camps are clusters of ortz—conical, teepee-like tents of canvas or felt over birch poles—with reindeer browsing calmly at the forest edge. Mornings begin with smoky tea and the small rituals of herd life: milking, salting, checking calves. Days might involve riding to fresh pasture, gathering wood, learning to tie pack saddles, or sharing quiet time by the stove while rain taps on canvas. Evenings are for stories, songs, and the low clink of bells as reindeer circle back to camp.

Meals are simple and hearty: salty milk tea, fresh or dried cheese, soups with mutton and forest herbs, and—if the season allows—reindeer milk products. Electricity is rare to nonexistent; reception drops out long before the trail ends. You come to be present, not connected.

Travel responsibly among reindeer

Ask before photographing people, homes, or animals. Keep drones packed unless you have explicit consent—rotor noise stresses both reindeer and wildlife. Follow your hosts’ lead on reindeer interactions: never chase or corner animals, give calves and salt stations wide space, and avoid riding reindeer unless specifically invited and supervised. Buying handicrafts directly, paying fair rates for guiding and pack animals, and bringing practical gifts (tea, flour, needles, headlamp batteries) are more helpful than sweets or plastic trinkets.

Camps are households, not exhibits. Step over thresholds, not on them; don’t lean on support poles; keep feet pointed away from hearths; accept food and drink with your right hand or both hands. Leave fires tidy, cigarettes fully out, and no trace but footprints.

Practicalities and packing

Think waterproof and warm. Sturdy broken-in boots, quick-dry layers, a serious rain shell, warm hat and gloves, and a down layer for cold nights are essential. In summer, bring a head net, strong repellent, and sun protection. A compact sleeping bag rated to freezing, trekking poles for boggy ground, water filter, and a power bank/solar panel make life easier. Pack medications, blister care, and any personal prescriptions—there are no pharmacies beyond Mörön. Cash in tugriks for tips and purchases; cards won’t help in the taiga.

Horse travel is standard; novices manage with patience. Your kit will likely ride on pack horses—use dry bags and keep day essentials accessible. A lightweight sat-communicator adds safety, but your guide remains the best insurance.

Costs and a sample itinerary

Ballpark figures vary by group size and season, but a well-run 7–10 day taiga expedition commonly ranges from USD 1,300–2,500 per person, including transport from Mörön, permits, horses, food, and local payments. One-way flights Ulaanbaatar–Mörön run roughly USD 120–200. Always ask where your money goes—choose operators who detail fair compensation for Tsaatan families.

A classic seven-day outline: Day 1 fly or drive to Mörön. Day 2 4x4 to Tsagaan Nuur, final prep. Days 3–4 ride into the taiga and reach the current camp. Days 5–6 live and learn with your hosts: short rides, herding routines, forest walks, rest by the stove. Day 7 return ride and 4x4 to Mörön. Add buffer days for weather or to linger where it’s good.

Health, safety, and weather

Weather swings fast. Even in July, frost can glitter on saddles at dawn. Rivers rise after storms; your guides will pick safe crossings. Summer insects can be fierce; permethrin-treated clothing and head nets help. Ticks exist—consult a travel clinic about vaccinations and prevention. Drink treated water, pace yourself at altitudes between roughly 1,600–2,300 meters, and carry evacuation-capable travel insurance.

Words to carry

A few Mongolian courtesies go far: “Sain baina uu” (hello), “Bayarlalaa” (thank you), “Uuchlaarai” (sorry/excuse me), and “Bayartai” (goodbye). Smile, listen more than you speak, and let your hosts set the rhythm.

Beyond the taiga

Pair the journey with time on Lake Khövsgöl’s cobalt shores, hikes in the craggy Khoridol Saridag mountains, or quiet days among the lakes and marshes of the Darkhad Depression. Each place adds a piece to northern Mongolia’s mosaic without crowding the taiga.

The other side of Mongolia

Traveling to the Tsaatan is not about ticking a box; it is about entering a living landscape on its terms. Go slowly. Pay fairly. Tread lightly. If you do, you’ll carry home more than photographs: the murmur of larch in the wind, the soft clink of bells at dusk, and the knowledge that some ways of life still move at the pace of care.