The Road Less Traveled: Discovering Boruca Indigenous Villages

Beyond Costa Rica’s surf breaks and rainforest lodges lies a quieter journey into living tradition. In the terraced hills and river valleys of the southern Pacific region, the Boruca (Brunka) people keep a vibrant culture alive through story, ceremony, and craft. Visiting the Boruca villages offers travelers a chance to connect with the country’s Indigenous heritage while directly supporting community livelihoods.

Who are the Boruca?

The Boruca are one of Costa Rica’s Indigenous peoples, with ancestral lands in today’s Puntarenas Province near the Térraba River valley. The main communities are Boruca (often called Comunidad Boruca) in the foothills above the town of Buenos Aires de Puntarenas, and Rey Curré along the Interamericana Sur (Route 2). Spanish is widely spoken, and efforts are underway to revitalize the Brunka language through schools and cultural programs.

Where tradition lives: masks and weaving

Boruca artistry is world renowned. Artisans carve expressive balsa-wood masks—some fearsome, some playful—then paint them in bold colors and intricate wildlife motifs. These masks carry meaning beyond decoration, linked to identity, resistance, and celebration. Women’s weaving cooperatives keep ancestral techniques alive using backstrap looms and natural dyes derived from local plants such as achiote (annatto), leaves, bark, and seeds. Buying directly from artisans ensures fair pay and helps preserve these skills for the next generation.

The Juego de los Diablitos

Each year, usually from late December into early January, Boruca and Rey Curré host the Juego de los Diablitos (Game of the Little Devils). Men wearing hand-carved masks and woven garments reenact a struggle between the diablitos (representing the community) and a bull (symbolizing Spanish colonizers). The multi-day event blends solemn ritual with communal celebration, traditional food, and music. It is both a festival and a living act of remembrance. Visitors are welcome, but the ceremony is sacred—observe respectfully, ask before taking photos, and follow guidance from hosts.

How to visit respectfully

Choose community-based experiences run by local associations and families—homestays, guided walks, mask-carving or weaving demonstrations, and language or cooking lessons. Book ahead, arrive with patience, and let your hosts set the pace. Always ask before photographing people, workshops, or ceremonies. Pay fair prices without aggressive haggling, bring cash in small bills, and consider buying directly from the person who made the item. Drones and recordings require permission. Dress modestly, pack out what you pack in, and carry a reusable water bottle to minimize waste.

Getting there

From San José, drive or take a bus south on Route 2 (Interamericana Sur) to Buenos Aires de Puntarenas (about 3.5–4.5 hours by car, longer by bus). From Buenos Aires, it’s roughly 45–60 minutes up a steep, sometimes rough road to the hilltop village of Boruca; a high-clearance vehicle is recommended in the rainy season. Rey Curré sits closer to the highway, south of Buenos Aires on the way toward Palmar Norte. Public buses connect San José and Buenos Aires several times daily; local taxis or infrequent buses run onward to the villages. Allow extra time for weather and road conditions.

When to go

The dry season (December–April) brings sunnier skies and easier road access. The green season (May–November) paints the hills a brilliant jade and often delivers afternoon showers; September and October are typically the wettest. The Juego de los Diablitos unfolds around the turn of the year, but smaller cultural activities and craft workshops happen year-round.

Where to stay

Homestays and simple guesthouses within Boruca and Rey Curré offer the richest exchange—expect basic but comfortable rooms, home-cooked meals, and conversations that linger after dark. In Buenos Aires you’ll find modest hotels and eateries. If you prefer to pair culture with coast, the beach towns of Dominical and Uvita (1.5–2 hours away) offer eco-lodges and boutique hotels.

What it costs

Community tours and workshops are typically modestly priced, and homestays are generally more affordable than resort stays elsewhere in Costa Rica. Hand-carved masks and fine weavings command higher prices reflective of the time and skill involved; purchasing them directly supports families and cultural continuity. Bring Costa Rican colones in small denominations; some places accept U.S. dollars, but ATMs are limited to larger towns like Buenos Aires.

What to eat and drink

Meals center on fresh, local staples: gallo pinto for breakfast; tamales wrapped in banana leaves; picadillos of chayote or green papaya; hearty soups with yuca or pejibaye; river fish or chicken prepared simply; and fruits that taste like sunshine. You may be offered traditional drinks such as cacao-based beverages or chicha de maíz—accept with thanks if you feel comfortable.

A gentle 2-day outline

Day 1: Travel from San José to Buenos Aires, continue up to Boruca, meet your hosts, visit the local museum or artisan cooperative, and watch the afternoon light fold over the valley. Day 2: Join a weaving or mask-carving demonstration, walk to a waterfall or viewpoint with a local guide, share lunch with your host family, then continue south to the Osa Peninsula or west to the Pacific beaches.

Nearby adventures

Pair your cultural visit with nature hotspots: Marino Ballena National Park for whale watching and tidal sandbars; Nauyaca Waterfalls for a jungle plunge; the Térraba-Sierpe wetlands for mangrove wildlife; or the Osa Peninsula for rainforest hikes. Each is reachable within a few hours’ drive, making the Boruca highlands an inspiring anchor for a broader southern Costa Rica route.

Packing and practicalities

Bring sturdy walking shoes, quick-dry clothing, a light rain jacket, sunhat, reef-safe sunscreen, and insect repellent. A headlamp is handy in rural areas. Mobile signal and Wi‑Fi can be spotty; download offline maps and confirm meeting points in advance. WhatsApp is the standard for local communication. Carry copies of your ID and enough cash for workshops, crafts, and tips.

Language and etiquette

A few Spanish phrases go a long way—saludos like “buenos días,” “por favor,” and “gracias” open doors. You may also hear Brunka words in greetings and storytelling. Ask before touching ceremonial items or trying on masks, and follow your host’s lead at community events.

Why this road matters

Travel to Boruca villages is not about ticking sights—it’s about relationship. By listening to stories, learning from artisans, and treading lightly, you become part of a reciprocal exchange that strengthens cultural resilience and brings Costa Rica’s soul into sharper focus. On this quieter road, the country reveals a deeper, more enduring kind of pura vida.