Off the Beaten Path: Discovering the Crooked Forest of Gryfino

Poland excels at quiet surprises. Beyond its Gothic brick towns, mountain spires, and broad Baltic beaches, one of its most curious sights hides in a modest grove near the German border: a stand of pines bent like elegant question marks. Locals call it Krzywy Las, the Crooked Forest, and the anomaly has puzzled foresters, artists, and travelers alike for decades.

Where is the Crooked Forest?

The Crooked Forest sits by the village of Nowe Czarnowo, just outside the town of Gryfino in Poland’s West Pomeranian Voivodeship. It is roughly 35 to 45 minutes by car south of Szczecin and about two hours from Berlin, making it an easy cross-border day trip. Trains run frequently from Szczecin Główny to Gryfino, where you can take a short taxi ride or local bus to the grove; many visitors simply plug “Krzywy Las, Nowe Czarnowo” into their maps and follow the signs. The site is unfenced and free to enter, with a small parking area and simple paths leading into the trees.

The mystery behind the curves

Planted around the 1930s, these Scots pines bend horizontally near the base before growing skyward, their lower trunks arcing northward in graceful sweeps. Estimates vary, but the grove originally numbered several hundred trees; today, only a fraction remain. Snow damage, genetic quirks, and war-time mishaps have all been suggested, yet the most accepted theory points to human craft: foresters likely shaped the trunks while young to produce naturally curved timber for boat ribs, furniture frames, or sled runners. History intervened, the project halted, and the trees continued their lives as living riddles.

When to go and what to expect

Spring and autumn are ideal, when soft light filters through and the forest floor is dotted with wildflowers or leaves. Summer brings lush greens and also mosquitoes, so bring repellent; winter, especially with a dusting of snow, highlights the geometry of the trunks. Early morning or late afternoon gives the best photography conditions and the quiet that suits the place. Paths can be muddy after rain, so waterproof shoes help. There are few facilities on-site; treat it like a short woodland stroll rather than a full-day hike.

Photographing the Crooked Forest

To convey scale, step back for wider frames that show multiple bends in one shot, then move low for close-ups of the arcs sweeping across the forest floor. A standard zoom is enough; a fast lens helps in shade. Foggy mornings are magic. Avoid trampling understory plants or climbing the trunks to pose—besides being unsafe, it accelerates damage to an already fragile site.

Travel kindly

The Crooked Forest survives because people treat it as a curiosity to be observed, not a playground. Stay on visible paths, resist carving bark, and keep drones grounded unless you have explicit permission. If you visit in a group, give each tree space; even a small shift in foot traffic patterns wears down roots and soils. Pack out whatever you bring in.

Make it a day: Nearby highlights

Base yourself in Szczecin, a revitalized port city with grand boulevards and striking contemporary architecture. The ice-white Szczecin Philharmonic Hall, the Pomeranian Dukes’ Castle, and sunset walks along the Oder River embankments make an easy urban counterpoint to the forest. Nature lovers can continue south to the Lower Oder Valley Landscape Park for birding and riverside cycling, or drive north to Wolin National Park for Baltic cliffs, sea views at Międzyzdroje, and a bison reserve. Closer to Szczecin, the Beech Forest (Puszcza Bukowa) offers serene hiking among cathedral-like stands of trees.

A taste of Poland

Exploring Poland means eating well and simply. After your woodland wander, warm up with żurek, a tangy rye soup often served in a bread bowl, or pierogi stuffed with seasonal fillings. In the northwest, look for smoked fish from the coast, and for a local curiosity, try paprykarz szczeciński, a peppery fish spread born in Szczecin’s shipyards. Cafés across the country serve excellent cakes and strong coffee, a pairing Poland treats seriously.

Beyond Gryfino: a wider Polish tapestry

Poland rewards curiosity. Head south to Kraków’s storied Old Town and the Tatra Mountains above Zakopane, east to the mirror-still lakes of Masuria, or into the primeval quiet of Białowieża Forest, one of Europe’s last lowland old-growth woodlands. Cities like Warsaw and Wrocław layer resilient history with modern design and a dynamic food scene. The Crooked Forest is a small chapter in a larger story of landscapes shaped by nature and, sometimes, by human hands.

Practical notes

Poland is in the Schengen Area; the currency is the złoty (PLN). Cards and contactless payments are widely accepted, though small rural shops may prefer cash. Polish is the official language, but you will get by with English in most tourist settings; a friendly dzień dobry for hello and dziękuję for thank you go a long way. Mobile data is fast and affordable, including eSIM options, and the emergency number is 112. Weather in West Pomerania can change quickly, so pack a light rain shell and sturdy shoes. At the grove itself, expect a short, flat walk suitable for most visitors.

Why it matters

Stand among the bent trunks and you feel a quiet kinship with Poland itself: resilient, inventive, slightly enigmatic. Whether born of old-world craftsmanship or nature’s whim, the Crooked Forest is a reminder that wonder often hides in the margins. Go softly, look closely, and let this small grove tilt your perspective before you set off to discover the rest of the country.