Hidden South Korea: Exploring the Untouched Beauty of Ulleungdo Island

Far off South Korea’s busy mainland, Ulleungdo rises from the East Sea in a crown of black basalt cliffs, emerald forest, and startlingly clear water. This volcanic island sits about 120 kilometers off the coast, yet it feels a world away: night skies glow with squid boats, sea mists curl around knife-edged pinnacles, and crater fields shelter quiet hamlets and herb gardens. If you are chasing South Korea’s raw, elemental side, Ulleungdo belongs on your map.

Why Ulleungdo belongs on your map

Ulleungdo’s drama is geological and human. A towering central peak, Seonginbong, rises almost straight from the sea, and a rare crater basin at Nari holds fertile fields and traditional thatched cottages. Trails thread through primeval forest to wave-battered headlands, while fishing villages hum to the rhythm of the squid harvest. The island’s small scale keeps things intimate, but its verticality and coastline carve out a sense of wild grandeur that is hard to find elsewhere in the country.

Getting there

High-speed ferries run year-round, weather permitting, from Pohang, Mukho in Donghae, and Hupo in Uljin, with additional seasonal services. Crossings usually take 2.5 to 3.5 hours and arrive at Dodong or Jeodong ports. Seas can be lively, so book ahead, bring photo ID, and consider motion-sickness medication. On the island, a scenic coastal road encircles most of the shore. Local buses make regular loops but are infrequent; taxis are easy to hire for sightseeing; limited car or scooter rentals are available. Many classic walks start right from Dodong, making a car optional for short stays.

Best time to visit

Late spring to early summer and September to October offer the most stable seas, clear views, and comfortable hiking weather. July and August bring warm water and lively ports but also humidity and crowds. Winter paints the cliffs in moody tones and keeps prices low, yet ferries are more prone to cancellation. Typhoons can affect the island from late summer into early autumn, so keep plans flexible and monitor forecasts.

Essential experiences

Climb Seonginbong. The island’s 984-meter summit rewards a steady, forested ascent with sweeping crater-to-coast panoramas. Start from Dodong for a classic half-day out-and-back, or make it a traverse via Nari Basin. On the clearest days you might glimpse the remote islets of Dokdo on the horizon.

Walk the Haengnam Coastal Trail. A boardwalk and cliff path curl from Dodong toward Haengnam Lighthouse, passing sea caves, spires, and turquoise inlets. It is one of Korea’s great short walks, ideal for sunrise or a wind-whipped golden hour.

Breathe in Nari Basin. This gentle, bowl-shaped crater is Ulleungdo’s pastoral heart, where small farms cultivate mountain herbs and pumpkins beneath the little parasitic cone of Albong. Try a simple sanchae bibimbap made with seasonal wild greens, and wander among traditional thatched houses.

Circle the coast. Hire a taxi or time the loop bus to take in the island’s showpiece cliffs and viewpoints. Highlights include the needle-like Songgot-bawi rock formation, blowhole-pocked headlands, and Bongnae Waterfall cascading from the forested interior toward the sea.

Consider a Dokdo excursion. When seas and schedules align, day trips reach the storied rocks of Dokdo from Ulleungdo. Departures are weather dependent and may sell out; bring ID and expect last-minute changes.

Taste of the island

Sea and mountain share the table here. Ulleungdo is famous for squid, served fresh as hoe, grilled, or sun-dried along the quays. Look for sanchae bibimbap, deodeok root, and other foraged herbs in simple set meals. Pumpkin shows up in beloved local treats like hobak-yeot taffy and even in a lightly sweet pumpkin makgeolli. Seaweed soups and hearty stews are reliable warm-ups after a windy hike.

Where to stay

Dodong and neighboring Jeodong offer the widest choice of small hotels and guesthouses, steps from ferry piers, eateries, and trailheads. For rural quiet, consider a pension or minbak in the Nari Basin area. Book well ahead for summer weekends and holidays. Rooms often feature ondol heated floors; ocean-view balconies make storm-watching a pleasure.

Practical tips

Weather turns quickly; pack layers, a windproof shell, and sturdy shoes. Ferries can cancel on short notice, so keep plans flexible and avoid tight onward connections. Cash is handy for small eateries and rural stays, though cards are widely accepted in town. Mobile coverage is strong near ports and patchier in deep valleys. Respect safety ropes on cliffs, carry out all trash, and avoid picking herbs or disturbing nesting seabirds. Drones may be restricted near ports and protected areas; check local rules before flying.

A flexible three-day plan

Day 1: Arrive at Dodong, settle in, then stretch your legs on the Haengnam Coastal Trail to the lighthouse. Dine on fresh squid or a steaming seafood stew back in town.

Day 2: Tackle Seonginbong in the morning for island-wide views. After a rest, tour the coastal road to Songgot-bawi and continue to Nari Basin for a slow walk and herb-rich dinner.

Day 3: If conditions allow, join the Dokdo excursion. Otherwise, explore Jeodong’s small harbor, visit Bongnae Waterfall, and linger over coffee before your return ferry.

The feel of Ulleungdo

Ulleungdo rewards unhurried travelers. It is a place where the sea is a constant drumbeat and the forest breathes cool air down the gullies, where trails end at railings above jade coves and dinners taste of wind, salt, and hillside gardens. Come with time, curiosity, and a spare day for weather, and you will leave with the sense you have touched one of South Korea’s last great island wilds.