Hidden Iceland: Discovering the Remote Westfjords

Where Iceland’s map frays into a lacework of peninsulas and deep, glacier-carved inlets, the Westfjords begin. Raw, sparsely populated, and staggeringly beautiful, this is the country’s last great frontier—where roads cling to mountain flanks, waterfalls thread down basalt cliffs, and seabirds outnumber people by the tens of thousands.

Why the Westfjords

Fewer than 8,000 residents share a region nearly the size of Belgium, leaving vast spaces to silence and sea. The landscape feels primeval: serrated fjords, rust-red beaches, Arctic fox country, and mirror-calm bays that turn gold under the midnight sun. Come for the solitude and stay for the slow travel—unhurried days stitched together by coffee stops, roadside hot springs, and photo pauses you never planned.

Getting there

From Reykjavík, drive the Ring Road (Route 1) and branch onto Route 60/61 into the Westfjords; allow 5–7+ hours to most bases, more with stops. In summer, the Baldur ferry crosses Breiðafjörður from Stykkishólmur to Brjánslækur (book ahead; optional stop on Flatey). Daily domestic flights connect Reykjavík (RKV) with Ísafjörður (IFJ), the region’s hub. Once there, follow the Westfjords Way (Vestfjarðaleiðin), a scenic loop of around 950 km tying the peninsulas together.

When to go

June to August offer the best road conditions, birdlife, and long days. May and September are quieter shoulder months with cooler weather and occasional roadwork. October to April bring northern lights and deep tranquility, but storms, closures, and limited services are common—plan conservatively if visiting then.

Highlights

Dynjandi Waterfall

The Westfjords’ crown jewel fans 100 meters wide over tiered basalt like a bridal veil, audible long before it’s visible. A short path passes smaller falls to the main cascade—arrive early or late for the sound of water and nothing else.

Látrabjarg Cliffs and Rauðasandur

Europe’s largest bird cliff towers 440 meters above the sea at Iceland’s westernmost point. In late spring and summer, puffins nest within arm’s length, but the turf is undercut—keep well back from the edge. Nearby, Rauðasandur sprawls for kilometers in copper and rose tones, a surreal contrast to Iceland’s typical black sands.

Ísafjörður and the northern fjords

The region’s cultural heartbeat is a snug harbor town ringed by avalanche-scarred mountains. Base here for kayaking in glassy fjords, visits to the Arctic Fox Centre in Súðavík, boat trips to bird-filled Vigur Island, and a detour to the calm, photogenic beaches of Önundarfjörður.

Hornstrandir Nature Reserve

Roadless, rugged, and hauntingly beautiful, Hornstrandir is reachable only by boat from Ísafjörður or nearby towns. It’s a sanctuary for Arctic foxes and hikers seeking multi-day wilderness routes. There are no shops or services—carry supplies, respect weather windows, and pre-arrange pickup.

The Strandir Coast

A lonely run of road unfurls north of Hólmavík, home to the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft. Farther on, soak at Krossneslaug, an oceanside pool where steam meets sea mist, and at the simple shorefront hot pots in Drangsnes.

Skywalks and sea stories

Peer over the edge at the Bolafjall viewing platform above Bolungarvík on a clear day for sweeping fjord panoramas. Near Patreksfjörður, see the rusting hulk of Garðar BA 64, Iceland’s oldest steel ship, resting on a shingle shore like a sea giant asleep.

A five-day Westfjords Way loop

Day 1: Reykjavík to Patreksfjörður via the Baldur ferry; sunset at Rauðasandur. Day 2: Látrabjarg puffins at dawn; drive to Arnarfjörður for Dynjandi; overnight in Bíldudalur or Þingeyri. Day 3: Ísafjörður via the Vestfjarðagöng tunnels; seafood dinner and an evening paddle. Day 4: Boat to Hornstrandir for a day hike (or Vigur Island for birds); late coffee on the harbor. Day 5: Strandir coast to Hólmavík and Krossneslaug if conditions allow; return to Reykjavík.

Food and culture

This is seafood country: try plokkfiskur (comforting fish stew), fresh Arctic char, and pan-fried catch at Ísafjörður’s beloved Tjöruhúsið. Snack on harðfiskur (dried fish) with butter, linger in small-town bakeries, and sample local brews at Dokkan Brugghús. Summer festivals and tiny museums—like Bíldudalur’s Sea Monster Museum—add quirky flavor to the edges of the map.

Practical tips for remote travel

Fuel up often; stations can be far apart. Expect gravel, single-lane bridges, and sections of one-lane tunnels—yield and drive patiently. Most main routes are summer-friendly for 2WD; a higher-clearance vehicle adds comfort on rough stretches. Check road.is and vedur.is daily, and consider safetravel.is for alerts. Keep off-road driving strictly off the table—it’s illegal and damaging. At cliffs, keep distance from edges and nesting birds; watch for sheep on the road.

What to pack

Windproof and waterproof layers, sturdy boots, warm hat and gloves (even in summer), swimsuit for hot springs, sunglasses and sunscreen for long daylight, reusable water bottle, and offline maps. In summer, an eye mask helps with late-night light; in shoulder seasons, add traction for icy paths.

Responsible travel

Stick to marked roads and trails, leave no trace, and camp only where permitted. Respect wildlife closures and eiderdown farms, tread gently on fragile turf, and keep drones grounded where prohibited.

Final thoughts

The Westfjords reward the curious traveler with time: time to follow the contour of a fjord, to share the road with the weather, to listen to birdsong replace traffic. Come for the headline sights; leave with a pocketful of quiet places that feel entirely your own.